Saffron in perfumery
Written on 1 February 2024
As February dawns and the winter frost begins to melt, lovely crocus flowers let us know spring is on its way. This little flower, although quite precious, cannot be used in perfumery. This is quite surprising given that its close relative, the Crocus Sativus, which blossoms only in autumn and is impossible to find in the wild, provides us with one of the most delightful fragrances used in perfumery: noble saffron.
This little purple flower must be hand-picked while its petals are still closed. Then, from each flower, its three precious red pistils are plucked and dried.
Harvesting and production must all be done by hand, which explains the high price of this fabulous spice, which has brought joy and flavor to the Mediterranean region for centuries. Saffron is the subject of many legends – apparently, Cleopatra used to add it to her bath to bring a reddish hue to her skin. It is also a symbol of the resurrection of in Greece.
Iran is the number one producer of this special spice – it is also grown in India and Spain.
In the modern day perfumery industry, natural saffron is not permitted due to the allergenic qualities of Safrol. Thankfully, a synthetic molecule has been developed to allow perfumers to continue using this special note, with its leather and honey tones, in modern day creations.
It’s intensity and long-lasting quality classifies Saffron as a base note – it marries well with wood tones like Oud, as well as powdery notes like iris and violet. It’s spiciness pairs well with cinnamon and pepper, and can warm up hesperidin head notes like bergamot.
Saffron is extremely versatile and works well with many different fragrances. In our Sensuel Safran from la Collection Privée, we chose to accentuate its mysterious allure by pairing it with amber and sandalwood. The result is a warm, envelopping fragrance that is supremely alluring.
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